51. The cry of the Indri

On Easter Monday there is not much to do in Tana so we just stroll along the city. After two days of sitting in a car it is nice to be walking. On this holy day there are barely any cars in the capital. Good thing for a city like Tana where air pollution is a problem.

Next day we are sitting in a taxi-brousse again. In less than 5 hours we go from hotel door to hotel door, about a 140 km done. Not bad! LOL We sleep in a little bungalow near the Andasibe national park. We’re here to come and see the rare Indri, the largest lemur known for its wailing cry that you can hear up to 2 km further. This kind of lemur is called Babakoto in Malagasy. The name ‘Indri’ actually means ‘Look up there’. It was mistaken for the animal’s name by a European explorer when the locals showed it to him. : )

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The biggest lemur but with the smallest tale: the Indri

We walk for about three hours in the park. It is so great to see these animals life in their natural habitat, to watch them jump from one tree to another. The Indri is by the way the only type of lemur that has never ever survived in captivity. Even when they were given the same food as they would eat while living in the wild, no Indri has stayed alive. Therefor it is not allowed anymore to keep Indris in captivity.

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Another kind, the second largest ; )

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The cutest of them all, the greater bamboo lemur. Smaller than the ones in Ranomafana but the same species.

The highlight of the day was without any doubt the moment when the Indris started to do that typical cry and we were standing right under the trees where one group was lingering. Yes, I can even say it made me a bit emotional. There I was sitting on the ground, witnessing this Indri family communicate with another one somewhere further in the forest. The fact that nature is so overwhelmingly beautiful and that Kosta and I get to experience so many magical moments while travelling, really touched a soft spot in me. The two of us are so damn lucky to see all of this!

In the evening we also do a night walk. That gives us the opportunity to see the smallest lemur of them all: the mouse lemur. No pix of these little ones as they are to quick to be eternalised with our little camera.

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And then, after two days here it is time to go back to the capital. Time to catch a flight to South Africa and pick up our very much missed Landcruiser! Being in Madagascar was not always easy but was great. If you are backpacking like us, you appreciate your car even more. LOL Travelling on public transport here is returning to hard core backpacking, it is experiencing what true backpacking is all about. It’s a lot of waiting and wondering why people are not more logical, it is sitting uncomfortably for hours, looking at your watch and begging for time to go faster. It is eating the same over and over again in local restaurants, holding your breath while using toilets that you would never use at home or preferably peeing in bushes when the bus stops for this kind of break. But it is also enjoying more than ever that you have arrived, that the mattress in the guest house is surprisingly good and that cold coca-cola is available. We had forgotten what energy backpacking takes out of you, but Madagascar has definitely been worthwhile!

50. Sun, beach and sea

Tuléar is only 250 km from Ranohira but it takes us 7 hours to get there. The joy of public transport. Not only is the little van overloaded with people, but you should see what they put on the roof! Stuff like a mattress, a chicken cage, big bags of food, suitcases and backpacks are piled up almost as high as the van itself. No wonder the driver is bribing every police officer at the checkpoints to pass with a taxi-brousse for 14 passengers holding 22 people and carrying way too much weight on the roof. We must have been stopped about ten times and every time money was ‘discreetly’ passed on from one drivers’ hand to an officers’ one. Yes, the police, your trustworthy friend! LOL

We sleep one night in Tuléar and the next morning we take the taxi-brousse to Mangily, a little beach town 2 hours from there. This time we are taking the bigger taxi-brousse: a truck that should give a seat to about 29 people but heaven knows how many we were! When you think that the truck really is full now, just then they manage to squeeze in more people. Then the truck takes off and you think that’s it… while on the way they pick up 4 more people. Oh yes, I think the saying ‘the more the merrier’ was invented here in Madagascar! LOL

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Hugging a baobab tree

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Smile with tongue out

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Our transportation

After two hours of my legs being cramped by on one side ice blocks underneath the seat and on the other side a woman and child they managed to squeeze in, we arrive. Not the most comfy ride I’ve ever taken but definitely an experience! The next four days we chill out on the beach of Mangily. The beach is beautiful, the sun is shining and the water temperature is just right. But life is hard as we’ve gotten a very nice bungalow for the price of the cheaper ones. One can be so unlucky! LOL

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Our evening ritual: watching the sun go down from the terrace of the bar

What is unfortunately very obvious in Madagascar is the presence of sex tourism. In the capital you can’t miss the bastards that take advantage of young girls desperate for money, and here in Mangily it is the same. Young women walk along the beach with a way older guy. Those men are always French as Madagascar used to be a French colony. And as the French are not really famous for their amazing ability to speak other languages, this is an easy option to them. When we were at the natural pool in Isalo on the second day of our trek, this older French guy arrives with two other men and a young woman. The guy can barely enter the pool by himself, just to tell you he’s not in the best shape of his life. At one point he asks the girl ‘Est-ce-que tu m’aimes ?’. She answers coolly that she doesn’t. The French guy finds it funny but you could tell that it was an honest response. I don’t want to jump to conclusions every time I see a white guy with a (younger) local woman, but trust me, love is more than often not present in ‘relationships’ here.

Anyway, after 4 days of relaxing we leave our bungalow at 5.45 am to go to Tuléar and catch a ride to Tana about 900 km up north. As a lot of tours end in Tuléar empty cars drive back to the capital. We might be travelling local style but there is a limit to my willingness to sit in a taxi-brousse for two days straight. So we drive back up with Nary who was a nice, easy going guy and who has a comfy 4x4. Aaaah,this is how one should always travel in Madagascar. If only we weren’t that cheap. LOL

49. Sweating like a princess

After 7 hours of driving we arrive in Ranohira. We say goodbye to our driver Freddy and his wife and son. They are driving back up to Antsirabe after 3 days with us. Yes, in a couple of days we can look forward to sitting in a taxi-brousse again. But first things first: we are going on a hike in the Isalo National Park. We get everything sorted out and the next day we are off for 2 days of sweating, climbing and descending and some more sweating! We start with entering the canyon. It is nice and cool here. We walk over rocks, loose a bit of balance here and there but enjoy it very much. An hour later we are climbing up the bloody canyon, loose a bit of balance here and there and I am not enjoying this very much! LOL My friends, I am sweating like a princess!It is boiling hot, and I mean BOILING hot! But good things come to those who persevere and once we are up the view is absolutely amazing! That and the fact that it is lunch time make it all worthwhile. LOL

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Walking toward the canyon for a walk in it and afterwards a hike on it

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Welcomed by the ‘I like to move it, move it’ symbol of Madagascar:
the ring-tailed lemur

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In the canyon

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On the canyon

Belly full, we head off again in the blistering heat. Of course like with all hikes in the mountains, we are going up and down, up and down. And there are some clouds but the sun is full on. You would think that there would be more shade with all the clouds but oh no, not here. Only once in a while the sun disappears behind a white piece of heaven. I really wonder why that is. At home I have the feeling that when there are a couple of clouds they spend most of the day hiding the so wanted sun. Here the clouds seem to avoid that nasty yellow ball in the sky!

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After a good enough sleep in a tent we start the second day of the trek. But the suffering is finished. It’s not as hot as the day before and apart from the first 400 meters up up up, we are not climbing so much. Good thing we did the canyon first, now we only need to do the easy part. The sun still makes it a sweaty experience but this trek is definitely worth doing. Not only for the challenge it gives you, but more than anything else for the amazing surrounding and animals we see. Take a look at these nice bugs:

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Beautiful dragonfly

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Now how colourful is that!

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Or that! Eeuw…

48. Amazing animals

I have the feeling that when it comes down to animals we are always lucky. Even here in Madagascar, where luck was lost on our route, we get to see nature at its best. Freddy has found us a guide for the Ranomafana National Park. Guides are compulsory in every park in Madagascar and Emile will be ours for the visit. You can not be luckier than with Emile: he is very knowledgeable as he has been a guide for many years and more so, he works with research teams. Emile was even present when they discovered that the very rare golden bamboo lemur had its home here. This lemur and the greater bamboo lemur were the reason why the national park came into being in 1986.

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With Emile, showing us the frog species he discovered, the
Anodonthyla Emilei, that was named after him

As assistant-guide Emile ‘s son William spots animals ahead of us. I tell you, we were part of the winning team that day! We have not only seen the rare golden bamboo lemur but also the even more rare greater bamboo lemur. We actually barely stood one meter or so of it. In five to ten years time they believe that the greater bamboo lemur will be extinct. At the moment only ten of them remain in the park.

It was animal luck without ending that day. Loads of different kinds of lemur showed us their cute faces, we saw two kinds of leaf tail geckos, the tiniest chameleon of the forest and frogs. Now you might think that a gecko is a gecko, but no, these are super special and mega hard to spot. Kosta and I tried to spot one of the geckos but even with knowing where it should be, we couldn’t see it! William found the camouflage animal, and even Emile had to look very closely before he saw it. Nature surely is amazing! To show you how lucky we were: Kosta asked Emile about the smallest chameleon ever he had seen on a national geographic documentary. And yes they live here confirms Emile, but unfortunately they are so hard to find, just because they are so tiny. 5 minutes later we are staring at one!

Here some pics of our trip. Some of the animals are obvious, with others you might have to look twice. : )

In the category hard to spot we have:

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Leaf tail gecko

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Another kind of leaf tail gecko

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A frog

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The smallest chameleon

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Spider killed by another one that spitted venom over it
and sucked all the fluids out. Nice. LOL

And then the bit more obvious:

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Cuddly lemurs

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Another kind : )

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No idea of the name of this lemur : )

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The very rare greater bamboo lemur eating… bamboo

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The rare golden bamboo lemur

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The rare great bamboo lemur

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And the very rare red chested Belgian blondy

47. And the story continues…

7.30 am our drivers pick us up. I have made an official complaint against Andry Gilbert and so we first make a stopover at the police station. Probably nothing will come out of that but at least we have done something. And after you have done your story the night before you would almost think that bringing in the written complaint wouldn’t take much of your time, but here the procedures make you wait until the commissioner is there. Afterwards you are send to the reception where another officer writes down that you handed in a complaint and then they refer you to the first floor where they type out your statement. About two hours later we are finally on the move again. Ok, here we go!

30 kilometres into the trip we are standing next to the road with an engine that has overheated… According to one of the guys they didn’t close the lit of the water reservoir properly this morning. Ok, shit happens, but Kosta is convinced it’s a more serious problem than that. When after 30 minutes the drivers start calling around and we hear the words ‘contract’ and ‘gasoline’ in Malagasy we are sure that this car isn’t going anywhere with us today. They are looking for someone to help them out. I guess they don’t want us to return to Antsirabe and have a chat at the police station again. LOL All good for us if someone takes over, we really are easy going travellers…. but there is a limit to everything in life, even to my kindness and understanding (ahum LOL). The new car arrives with new driver. An hour of trying to stay calm follows, an hour of discussion about money (of course) and about the amount of fuel we take out of the tank to put into the other car. When Kosta and I are finally satisfied with the result, we leave for Ranomafana.

After 50.000 curves (holding on to a plastic bag just in case LOL) we finally arrive. I have a bit of hope it will work out with Freddy, our new driver. He finds us a good place to stay after checking several guesthouses for us. This is all we need right now. A good night of rest will get the energy level back up. I have to admit, after a day of not feeling very well, followed by a very long day of public transport, then by one of discussions, waiting and a visit to the police station, to finally a day where a car breaks down and arguments with the two drivers almost make me lose my calm (yes, these are only the first 4 days in Madagascar LOL) I am wondering if I’m not getting too old for all of this. : )

46. How to scam seasoned travellers

Waiting for a car to be fixed is really just a waste of your day, isn’t it?! Don’t you hate it, lingering somewhere and getting itchy feet? I mean, you might as well do something with the time on your hands. Renting a car and doing more of South Africa is not an option for us, but taking a flight to Madagascar surely is! Yes, yes, yes, we are off to the country they sometimes call the 8th continent of the world, due to its biodiversity found nowhere else. So at 6 am Saranne drops us of at the airport of Cape Town, an hour later we are in the air on our way to Johannesburg where we will catch a plane to Tana, the capital of Madagascar.

On our first day I don’t do that much really. Kosta goes for a bike ride while I stay in the guesthouse not feeling a 100%. He returns knackered from the going up and down the hills, I feel just fine. LOL As we have heard public transport is a pain we try and organise a car.That is easier said than done. First of all you need to have a driver. Ok, we find one. To make a long this-guy-makes-me-loose-my-time-story very short, we end up at the taxi-brousse station anyway. And there the rumour becomes reality. When we arrive we’re jumped on like meat by hungry dogs: everybody is trying to talk to us, bring us to their taxi. Now, naive as I am, I would have thought there would be a system in their taxi offering. But make no mistake my friends, this is worse than India (and for those who have travelled there by bus, that means something). Not only do we have to wait 2 hours before the taxi fills up, we also see ten taxi-brousses going the same way and here and there someone has already taken a seat. Why fill up the first when we can make twenty people wait spread over several taxis?!!! To make a long day short: from door to door of the hotel, it takes us 7 hours. Antsirabe, our destination, was the whole 150 km away! (I am making it all a bit shorter as the long story follows LOL)

You can imagine how we are greeted by hawks when we arrive at Antsirabe. We decide to ignore them and find our way to a hotel mentioned in Lonely Planet. It happens to be not far from the bus station so easy to get there on foot. All of a sudden a guy tells us he works at reception. Yeah, yeah, where have we heard that before. As we arrive he gets the key and opens the door of the hotel. Ok, he does work here. We get installed into our room and ask Andry if the hotel offers a service of renting a car for three days. That seems to be no problem. So nice, we get that sorted out, a contract is made and a cash advance is given. Andry shows us where to have dinner at a local restaurant, in the morning he takes us to a place for breakfast. Everybody seems to know him. This receptionist is doing his best. An hour later a taxi with 2 drivers picks us up. Our first stop is at the beautiful volcano lake Triviata, not so far from Antsirabe. With a compulsory local guide and followed by 12 children we enjoy our little tour of the lake. Then we head by to Antsirabe, say goodbye to Andry and leave with the two drivers toward Ranomafana.

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We didn’t make it there that day. Instead we ended up at the police station of Antsirabe. We have been scamed… and surely enough so have the drivers. As we have lunch along the way this becomes clear with a simple discussion about us not wanting to pay food for the drivers.Kosta and I never agreed on that and that is what we tell them. They have not seen any money yet, were told it was way more than we have on the contract and were also lied to about the amount of days. We understand that they are upset and off we go back to Antsirabe. The drivers call Andry but the phone is switched off. After an hour or so we get him on the phone, Andry even calls us back on ours to tell he is on his way. Of course he never showed up.

You would think the story ends here. We loose a bit of money, time as well, but ah there are worst things than that. But no. In the morning we have filled up and paid for fuel, and that is also money down the drain. As we don’t come to an agreement with the cab drivers (I mean, really, they want to give us diesel back but what the hell are we going to do with that?!). So off to the police station it is. I tell my story first to the commissioner, then he calls the drivers and they do theirs. It is quit weird sitting there in the office of the commissioner as he tries to get an agreement that both parties would agree on. I feel a bit like being on Judge Judy LOL. He writes down their names and telephone number and tells me to make a new contract and also make a formal complaint against Andry. Not that that is going to change anything but we might as well do it. With the help of the officer we come to an understanding with the drivers. They bring us back to the hotel, we make a new contract and if all goes like planned they pick us up tomorrow.

We have to say this guy Andry has really done his job like a true professional. His clothes are clean, he takes care of himself, he knows (as we learned later on) that the owner of the hotel is in France due to illness, and he acts as if all is well until the last possible minute. Like going to the lake with us, giving his number, I mean everything is thought through. Even the fact that the guy who actually works at the hotel is running the internet café is taken in consideration. The both of us have travelled the world, trusting and more than anything else, not trusting people. Who would have thought we would get scammed in our hotel. And it is hard to understand maybe how he managed to play it as if he works there when you think of hotels in Europe but this is Africa. The house of the manager is part of the hotel, the internet cafe he runs is on the first floor and has a different entrance. As Andry comes there often and sometimes brings tourists, the manager knows him. So Andry goes and tells him he brought people, the managers asks his wife to open the door. She does not speak a word of French so she just opens and leaves. The managers doesn’t come down and so obviously we believe Andry works here. I mean, we don’t even know at that point that there is actually another person working at the place.

To top it all the actual manager (if you can call him that, I would just say the lazy bastard now the owner is out of town) tells me Andry ‘has done something to another traveller before’. He saw his picture once with ‘voleur’ written under it. ‘Maintenant je m’en souviens (yeah, as if!) Now I am really pissed! I tell the guy I will put a warning on the internet and that it is also his responsibility not to let those kind of people in. And of course I tell him we will not be paying for the room this night as they could have prevented the whole situation. At least that gives us 5 euro back LOL. Oh well, total damage done: 40 euro and a huge headache.